Guide
How to clean a fabric sofa, and when steam cleaning is safe
Find the cleaning code on the label first: W means water-based cleaning is fine, S means solvent only, WS means either and X means vacuum only. Then vacuum, test a hidden spot, use as little liquid as possible and let the sofa dry completely.
Start with the label
Most sofas carry a cleaning code on a label under the seat cushions, on the deck beneath them, or on the underside of the frame. It is the most useful thing to know before anything wet goes near the fabric.
| Code | What it means |
|---|---|
| W | Water-based cleaners are fine, including upholstery shampoo and wet extraction |
| S | Solvent-based cleaner only. Water can leave rings and shrink the fabric |
| WS | Either water-based or solvent cleaner can be used |
| X | Vacuum and brush only. No liquid of any kind |
No code at all usually means the sofa is old, second hand or the label has been cut off. Treat it as S or X until somebody has tested it. Leave the fire safety label attached too: charity shops and resellers generally need to see it before they will take the sofa on.
Routine care that saves a deep clean
Vacuum the sofa every week or two with the upholstery tool, including the crevices and under the seat cushions, where crumbs and grit collect and wear the fabric from inside. Turn and swap reversible cushions so they wear evenly, plump them, and keep the sofa out of strong direct sun if you can, because sunlight fades most fabrics.
Deal with spills straight away by blotting, pressing a clean white cloth on the spill and lifting, rather than rubbing. Rubbing pushes the liquid deeper, spreads the mark and roughens the surface of the fabric.
How to clean a W or WS sofa yourself
- Vacuum thoroughly first. Dry soil turns into mud the moment water reaches it.
- Mix a weak solution: a few drops of washing-up liquid in a bowl of lukewarm water, or an upholstery shampoo made up as the label says.
- Test a hidden spot, such as the back of the skirt or under a cushion, and let it dry before carrying on.
- Work with a damp cloth, not a wet one. Wring a microfibre cloth until it is barely damp and work in small sections, from the outside of any mark towards its centre.
- Rinse with a second cloth dampened in clean water, so no detergent is left in the fabric to attract dirt.
- Blot dry with a towel, open a window or run a fan, and keep off the sofa until it is completely dry.
- Brush the pile gently once dry, so it does not set flat.
Removable covers are tempting to put in the machine. Check the label first: many are dry clean only, and a cover that shrinks even slightly will not go back on the frame.
Can you steam clean a sofa?
What most people call steam cleaning is hot water extraction: a cleaning solution sprayed into the fabric and sucked straight back out. On a W or WS fabric in sound condition, done with an upholstery tool and a light hand, it works well, and it is what most professional upholstery cleaners use.
It is the wrong method for S and X fabrics, for silk and viscose, which mark and weaken when wet, and for velvet that can crush. Handheld steamers carry their own risks: the heat can shrink fabric and set protein stains such as blood, milk and urine, and the moisture collects in the foam. Hired carpet machines tend to put in far more water than upholstery can take, which is how sofas end up with brown rings and a smell that lasts for weeks.
Common stains and the first move
| Stain | First move |
|---|---|
| Tea, coffee or juice | Blot, then dab with cool water and a drop of washing-up liquid on a W fabric |
| Red wine | Blot at once and keep blotting with cool water. Never hot water |
| Grease or food | Solvent upholstery cleaner on S fabrics, a washing-up liquid solution on W |
| Blood or milk | Cold water only. Heat sets protein stains for good |
| Pet urine | Blot, then an enzyme cleaner. Odour in the foam needs a deeper treatment |
| Ink or make-up | Leave to a professional on most fabrics |
Mistakes that ruin a sofa
- Too much water. Wet foam dries slowly, and as it dries it wicks dirt to the surface and leaves a brown ring bigger than the original stain.
- Bleach or stain removers made for clothes. They strip colour unevenly and can weaken the fibre.
- Heat on a damp sofa. A hair dryer or heater close to the fabric can shrink it and set what is left of the stain.
- Testing in the middle of a seat. A test patch belongs somewhere nobody will ever see.
- Sitting on it too soon. Pressure on damp fabric marks it and pushes moisture back into the cushion.
When to pay for it
A professional upholstery clean costs about £60 to £120 for a three-seat sofa, £30 to £50 for an armchair and £90 to £180 for a corner unit, with leather at £80 to £160 for a three-seater. Most firms have a minimum charge of £60 to £90 a visit, which is why a sofa and a chair together often costs little more than the sofa alone.
It is worth it for S and X fabrics, for anything with pet odour in the foam, and for a sofa nobody wants to risk. Expect the cleaner to look for the code, ask what the fabric is, and test before starting.
Common questions
How long does a sofa take to dry after cleaning?
Four to eight hours after a professional clean, with a window open or a fan running, and longer in a cold room. Home cleaning with too much water can take a day or more, and the foam is the last part to dry.
Can I use a carpet cleaner on my sofa?
Only with an upholstery attachment, only on a W or WS fabric, and with much less solution than on a carpet. Run extra dry passes to pull out as much water as you can.
Can I clean an S-coded sofa myself?
Small spots, yes, with a solvent upholstery cleaner used sparingly in a ventilated room. A whole sofa in an S fabric is a job for a professional, because solvents over a large area in a living room are unpleasant and hard to do evenly.
Will cleaning remove a smell from my sofa?
Surface smells such as food or smoke usually improve with a clean. Pet urine and vomit soak into the foam, and they need a treatment that reaches it rather than a clean of the fabric.